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Pierre Mahéo got his hands on a cache of photos of New York in the Seventies — Sunil Gupta’s “Christopher Street 1976” — and went to town. 

“That street at that time was phenomenal! I just loved it,” he enthused backstage before the show. Drawn to the velvet, corduroy, denim and military pieces, and the way they were mixed , the designer worked shearling coats, a jean jacket, British khakis and nutty brown suits — one with a handsome shadow plaid shirt underneath — into his co-ed lineup.

The first part of the collection focused on volumes, which he borrowed from a pair of vintage trousers that had belonged to Hordes Genberg, the wife of British actor David Niven — with double box pleats. He paired these, in white, with chunky ivory sweaters and  a crisp suit jacket, or in herringbone with a turtleneck sweater — the latter style snatched from today’s streets.

Officine Générale Men’s Fall 2020

46 Photos 

To finish off the show, his mind went to Jacques Dutronc and Françoise Hardy and he slimmed down the jackets and trousers a notch. (He noted trousers are an important seller for the brand.) Dresses for women veered into bourgeois territory, but he also offered a checked wool work shirt for women, which he paired with a dark skirt that carried an extended fringe that felt very modern. 

Pushing both elegance and comfort, with a clear notion of style, Mahéo did what he does best — push fashion forward with a light hand, while keeping things utterly wearable. 

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